Cincinnati Magazine - March 2008
By Donna Covrett
Best New Restaurant - Runner-up
Hugo, 3235 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 321-4846
Hugo’s low-country cuisine and gracious hospitality deliver sophisticated comfort with a Southern accent. Blending the familiar with the fresh, Chef Sean Daly exhibits true grits in plates such as pork chop, Hoppin’ John, and greens, or a risotto with duck confit, cabbage, and pecorino. It’s contemporary soul food that’s certain to blow you away.
The Utensil Awards
24 fabulous dishes that rocked our taste buds.
TO BE EATEN WITH...A LARGE FORK
Short Ribs
Hugo, 3235 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 321-4846
You barely even need a fork for chef Sean Daly’s short ribs. Served with parsnip puree and mushroom and leek braising liquid that will have you clamoring for a scrap of bread to sop it up.
TO BE EATEN WITH...A SMALL SPOON
White Cheddar Grits
Hugo, 3235 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 321-4846
Wicked good grits, with just enough butter and cheddar to momentarily transport you to the South. I know they’re part of the fabulous shrimp and grits dinner, but consider this an official appeal to put a petite version on Hugo’s lounge menu. One tiny cup, that’s all we need.
Table for Eight? No Problem
Dressed for casual elegance:
Hugo’s semi-private Magnolia Room accommodates 8 to 14 in upholstered high back chairs around a large library table. The floor-to-ceiling glass window means you’re still part of the restaurant, but it feels like a sophisticated family dinner with service staff.
Seven Super Small Plates
Risotto with duck confit, savoy cabbage, and pecorino
Hugo
Good risotto is sexy on its own, but with the addition of ambrosial duck confit and well-aged pecorino, Chef Sean Daly’s version should come with an X rating.
